A firm version, with a smoke-tinged overtone and subtle notes of poached pear and currant fruit. Pastry and lemon meringue details ride the fine and creamy mousse. Elegant. Drink now through 2021. 9,000 cases imported.

Offering up aromas of pear, peach and freshly baked bread, the new release of Pol Roger's NV Brut Reserve is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming, with a generous core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish, complemented by an elegant pinpoint mousse. It's a demonstrative, expressive Brut Reserve that will pick up additional complexity with more age on cork.

The nonvintage blend from this producer is just right. This wine brings the house style of richness from Pinot Noir together with crisp acidity and a balanced dosage. Drink now.

(one-third each pinot meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay) Subdued, deep aromas of spice, nuts and biscuits. Juicy, brisk and concentrated, with flavors of yellow plum, apple, lemon and minerals. At once dense and lively, with bright acids giving the wine a shapely quality. Finishes vibrant and distinctly stony.