Moncuit’s wines are all from single villages and single years—this one from the family’s parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and the 2016 vintage. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel, it is markedly tense and holds a lot of energy in its structure, even though it underwent malolactic conversion. There’s an elegant earthiness in its spring-meadow scent, like Queen Anne’s lace, and a note of green tea that extends through flavors of lemons and tangy orange. Cool and refreshing.

A classy blanc de blancs, offering fine balance and a lacy mousse, with a light, chalky undertow to the well-meshed flavors of Asian pear, quince blossom, pickled ginger and slivered almond. Refreshing and harmonious. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2025. 4,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.

The NV (2018) Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Delos Grand Cru is bright, crisp and bursting with character. Green pear, slate, crushed rocks and graphite are all beautifully knit together in this resonant, super-expressive Champagne. The Extra Brut is fabulous. Disgorged: April, 2023

From 90-year-old vines in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, this is a superbly ripe wine, full-bodied, concentrated with a great swathe of minerality going through. This is still young, based on the 2004 vintage, but shows every sign of developing into a beautifully toasty maturity.

Moncuit's non-vintage Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos Blanc de Blancs Brut is typically a rich, powerful, crisp effort displaying notes of chalk dust, white peaches, subtle bees honey, brioche, and yellow plums. Medium-bodied with gorgeous as well as persistent effervescence, and a dry, fabulously pure, laser-like finish, it should be drunk over the next 3-4 years.